Modified Mini Car
2018 Mini Weld
Please refer to general rules before building.
Failure to comply will result in disqualification and no refunds.
Any-Front wheel drive compact or mid-size 111”or
less car
Rear wheel drive compact cars must have a 108 or
less wheelbase and be of sub frame build.
NO FULL FRAME REAR WHEEL DRIVE VEHICLES!!!!
No engines larger than a (6) cylinder allowed
1. Car Preparation
A. All glass, plastic, chrome, bumper covers, air
bags and interior must be removed from car before arriving to the derby
including trailer hitches & brackets.
B. All decking in station wagons MUST be
removed!!!
C. Tires no bigger than 17 inch, No split rims, No
studded tires. Foam filled or Doubled tires OK-we don’t want any flats!!!
Valve stem protectors OK. Tires may be screwed to rims.
D. It is recommended that drivers wear a fire coat
or non-flammable jacket.
E. You must use an automotive radiator and it must
be in stock location. All cars must have working brakes. These will be
checked at inspection. No brakes, no derby. No EXCEPTION!!
F. Original gas tanks must be removed. You must
use a boat tank or well-made fuel cell and it must be properly secured and
covered. On newer model fuel injected vehicles fuel tank may be moved to
back seat area but must be very secured. Any movement at any time will be
automatic disqualification!!!! NO FUEL TANKS UNDER CAR!!!!
No gas cans. Plastic gas tanks must be placed in a
metal box!! Fuel line must be secured and fastened properly. Keep away from
exhaust.
G. Transmission coolers will be allowed, but must
be safe and properly secured.
H. Batteries must be moved. It must be properly
secured and covered.
I. You must have a number in Bright Colors on each
front door and must have 15”x 15” roof sign with car number on it for
judging. It is also highly recommended that driver’s door be painted white.
2. Car building:
2.1 WELDING:
A. Doors, trunks & Tailgates may be welded solid
with 3 inch wide straps x 3/16 inch thick or smaller fill materials. Top of
the doors may be rolled over and welded with no added materials. If you
decide not to weld, then you are allowed to chain/bolt/wire them shut with
UNLIMITED use of chain/bolts/wires.
B. You can weld frame seam.
C. For driver’s protection, from the firewall to
the center of the rear axle is your safety area, you may weld a bar behind
the seat from doorpost to doorpost, it can be an X, you may also have a bar
across your dash, you may connect the dash bar to bars behind seat across
the inside of front door only, you may also weld your steering column in. It
is highly recommended you may have a roll loop behind the seat, which must
be welded to the top of the frame or floor and welded or bolted to the roof,
must be straight up. Side bars may be no further back than the front inner
fender of rear wheel and may also install another cross bar as a fuel tank
protector. This bar cannot act as a kicker. Dash bar must be 6” from dash
sheet metal and floor. Dash bar must be located no farther back the inside
seam of front doors. You will be allowed 2 down bars on the inside on
driver’s door going down from the inside cross bar. Allowed 2 down bar on
the inside of the passenger’s front door but cannot be any farther forward
then the inside front door seam & can go to frame.
2.2 Bumpers:
A. Bumpers are interchangeable. Any Automotive
bumper and bumper brackets may be used on any car but only 1 set of brackets
may be used! Bumpers may be loaded but MUST resemble a stock bumper. Bumper
may only be loaded within the mounting points on frame. Homemade bumpers are
allowed. Outside this point is to remain stock or will be cut off. You can
weld bumper brackets and towers to the frame. You can weld bumper brackets
and shocks to the bumper. You can weld shocks to shock towers. You may trim
bumper ends or fold them around. Welding on the bumper skins together
(chrome to inner liner of bumper) is allowed. When welding bumpers, shocks
and brackets – do not add any metal. Weld shocks and brackets solid if you
wish. Weld them well; we don’t want any bumpers falling off! Bumper brackets
can be no longer than 6 inches. If your brackets are inside the frame you
must have an inspection hole to view how long the brackets are.
B. Bumpers may be welded to end of frame with no added metal, just use the welder. Rear bumper may have 2 straps, 2- chains or 2-wires (4 loops) from trunk deck or tailgate to bumper (not frame). You can only have 1 of the 3 used, NOT all 3! Straps can be up to 3” wide and no more than 5” on the bumper and 5” on the trunk or tailgate. Straps may be up to ¼” thick. You are allowed wire from radiator support to front bumper in 4 locations.
2.3 HOOD/TRUNKS:
A. You can fold hoods or trunk decks over.
B. 2 - 1” All-thread may go from the trunk lid to
frame, MUST go through body mount hole .You may use wire in 2 spots with 4
loops from trunk lid and may go around the frame with the wire. CAN’T DO
BOTH. Trunk meets floor maybe attached in 2 spots to floor-2 bolts
C. **Hood must have at least a 12-inch square hole
cut out in cast of fire. ALL CARS MUST COMPETE WITH A HOOD!!
You will be allowed 10 hood bolts; you MUST have
at least 4 hood bolts. You may have up to 1” all thread –2 may be used from
the hood down to the frame, but must go through the front body mounts. The
top 5” of all thread may be welded to radiator support. All thread may pass
thru frame. Hood bolts must be sheet metal to sheet metal. Hood must be open
for inspection. Plates for hood bolts cannot exceed 5x5x1/2 inch. Hood bolts
can be up to 1 inch in diameter.
2.4 SUSPENSION:
A. Suspension must be at stock height. Front and
rear struts may be homemade. The Main leaf spring must be the top spring in
the spring pack and leaf springs must stagger down with at least a 2 inch
stagger from longest to smallest. You can re-clamp springs, 6 clamps per
side homemade or factory. Homemade clamps can’t exceed 2x4x1/4 inch.
B. AMC cars may weld mounting brackets to uni-body
where leaf springs are mounted factory to uni-body frame. Include rear
shackle box.
C. Rear-end control arms may be reinforced, but
must be workable. No changing of wheelbase will be allowed.
2.5 ENGINE MOUNTING:
A. Engine mounts may be welded to engine cradle.
Engine must be mounted in stock location. Any skid plates on engine or
transmission can only be mounted to engine/transmission and can NOT be
attached to frame or cross member.
B. Use motor and transmission of choice, motor
must be in stock location. You may chain or weld motor and transmission to
keep in place (don’t strengthen the frame). Nothing on the engine can be
used to re-enforce the frame/car body, etc. If any parts on the engine or
transmission are being used to make the car stronger, you will be asked to
cut or take that part off before you can run.
C. You may have a 2-2” strap from the motor head
to frame on top side of frame next to A-arm on front side of motor and can
be welded with no added metal! You will be allowed 2- 2” straps on the rear
of the motor connected from the motor heads to 3” from back of A-arms.
2.6 STEERING:
A. Tie-rods ends must be stock, but the center can
be re-enforced, A-arms may re enforced. You may alter your steering column
to prevent loss of steering. Steering knuckles, homemade steering shafts,
etc.
2.7 FENDERS:
A. You may cut wheel wells for tire clearance &
you may weld fender over tire back together. Fenders may also be bolted
together. The rear quarter panel is considered part of the rear fender.
2.8 MISC:
A. All vehicles must have some sort of windshield
protection. The windshield protection can’t be any bigger than 3” wide- 5”
on dash – 5” on roof only.
The windshield bars must be a minimum of 3”
outside the DP!Windshield bars may only go from the roof to the dash. They
may NOT run to the struts. Rear window bars must run from sheet metal to
sheet metal and not be used for anything more than safety.
B. You may run a shifter through floor. You may
also have a hand throttle. If you are running an electric fuel pump – must
be hooked up to your ignition switch – so when your car shuts off – it shuts
off.
C. Dist. Cap protectors will be allowed on all
cars. The protector can only be mounted to engine and or transmission bell
housing.
D. Gas tank protectors are allowed, no wider than
24 inches in center of car, must be at least 1” away from rear sheet metal.
This may angle straight back from rear seat bar in center of car and must be
4” off the floor. Gas tank can’t be connected to protector unless gas tank
is mounted to top of protector and not to floor. Protector must be free
floating- not connected to anything but back bar!
3. RUST REPAIR & FRAME REPAIR:
A. You may repair rusted out sheet metal with
sheet metal only. Leave the rust in place and repair over it. Rusted out
frames may be repaired with 1/4 inch or less. You are allowed to weld the
patch 2 inches past the rusted out area, leave the rust in place.
B. Bent frames only may be repaired with 36
inches- 1/4 inch thick flat plate. This means you may patch as many spots as
needed but with only a total of 36 inches. The patch may be welded solid,
but you must have a 1/2 inch hole in the patch. You can only repair the
frame once in each place. No re-patching or layering of patches. Plates must
have a 1” space between plates.Any questions please call!!
C. No frame repairs at the events! You must repair
after event and then run another event.
THIS CLASS IS NOT FOR A BEGINNER......PLEASE BE AWARE OF THIS!!!